DIY: Cute ragdoll-dress for summer

A few years back I used to work at a fabric store. As a result I still have boxes upon boxes filled with fabric. Last Autumn I went through my whole stash and reorganized everything into neat piles and put them in clear boxes so I could see everything. Since then my fabric stash has been a bit more manageable.

I have vowed to not by new fabric until my stash is greatly diminished, so in order to do that I try to sew every now and again. Since I am also slowly creating a new wardrobe this goes hand in hand with the sewing. Problem is I usually need a lot of time and very good inspiration in order to sew. Pattern creation and new garments take a lot of time.

So last Monday inspiration hit and I happened to have extra time on my hands. Thus I went through my stash in search of fabrics that might match. I wanted to make a lace dress, but I did not have enough lace to make both the top and bottom parts of a full circle skirt dress. So I chose a black chiffon with a floral pattern for the skirt part and a lace for the top and sleeves. For lining I found a viscose with a very nice feel to it and a good weight. So I started cutting out pattern pieces, playing tetris with the pattern to get all the pieces out of my half meter lace fabric.

Top pieces cut.

Once I had everything cut I started with the lining of the skirt. I serged the hem and added a 25cm wide lace to it, ruffling it slightly. I then hemmed the edge of the chiffon but ran into some trouble with my serger. Frustrated and a bit tired already, I decided to cover the hem of the chiffon up with a red velvet ribbon. Some years ago I bought 15 meters of this ribbon and I thought I could finally put at least some of it to good use.

Once the skirt part was done I got started with the top. With both the lace and the lining I started by joining the shoulder seams together. I then attached the unlined sleeves and sandwiched them between the lining and the lace. I had to undo the seams and put them back together again because I was tired and wasn't paying attention to which way I was fastening them, but a frustrating 45 minutes later I was back on track.

Once the sleeves were attached I started thinking about how to hem them. I looked through my lace ribbon stash and found some stretchy, not so wide lace and decided to hem the sleeves with that to give them a neater look. I finished the head opening of the dress in the same fashion.

Hemming the sleeves.

The last thing that remained was to attach the top to the skirt layers. I serged them together and put in a line of strengthening straight stitches. I then zig-zagged an elastic band to this waistline to make the skirt fit nicely and not just hang like a sack from my shoulders. And here is the finished dress:

In all these are the materials I used:

1,2 m chiffon
1,5 m viscose (lining)
0,5 m lace fabric
6 m of 25 cm wide lace (lining hem)
5 m red velvet ribbon
1,7 m stretch lace (sleeves, head opening)
1 m of 0,7 mm wide elastic
black and red sewing thread.

Time: I think it took me about 8 hours from start to finish, including pattern drafting, meal breaks, chatting with friends and going for a walk in between. Had I worked non-stop I could probably have halved the time.

The dress fits nicely and the viscose works really well as a lining fro this dress. In all it feels light to wear, it is super cute and the uneven hem hives it a slightly rag-doll feel. Hmm. I wonder what I should make next.

~Stella

The pain of recreating a wardrobe

Eight to ten years ago I was at the height of my gothness. I had moved away from home to study in a big city. I had no money to spend on expensive goth clothing, but I sewed a lot, thrifted things and got things cheap on sale (like a full length cloak that was half price). As I was really tiny at the time I could fit everything I found at the thrift stores, and if something was too big I could just take it in. I had a good wardrobe. I was happy in my dark clothing.

Here is an old picture:

I was studying Theology at the time and some art students had a photography project going on about people who dressed differently than was expected for their field.

Then life happened. I had to start dressing more "normal" and at the same time I spiraled into depression. I kept sinking for a few years without realizing it. Suddenly my body had matured and I had gained weight. My old clothes did not fit me anymore. I still managed to keep a "going out"-wardrobe, but it got increasingly difficult. In the end I gave up for the sake of my sanity.

For the past year I have been slowly rebuilding my wardrobe. I have a ton of fabrics in my closet just waiting to be turned into creative pieces of extravagance. But for some reason it has been very difficult to get started with sewing.

I have been trying to thrift again, but most of the nice things I find do not fit me. I buy ready made goth clothing if I can find it on sale or cheaply, but only if I believe it will be of good quality and if I absolutely love it. I refuse to buy anything that will just sit in my wardrobe and do nothing. I'm also hesitant to order online because I don't want to get the wrong size. My body has also molded itself into such a non standard form that nothing of standard sizing will fit me properly. Hence my love of lacing closures.

But yes, I keep designing items of clothing that I want to wear. Weather or not I end up making them shall remain to be seen. I have at least gotten started with a new skirt, and as soon as I get a button installed it will be done (and it is turning out sooo pretty).

I am getting there, one clothing item at a time. And I really want to get back to my old level of just being able to sit down and sew three items of clothing a day. Those were fun times.